Guidebook for Brooklyn

Sam
Guidebook for Brooklyn

Food Scene

This sweets shop and cafe is a perfect spot for an after-dinner treat or cappuccino, what with how late it's open and how great a selection of classic Italian sweets it sells—from elaborate cakes to marzipan mussels to tempting gelato, and much more. I recommend getting an assortment of cookies—like the hazelnut sandwich cookies, sfogliatelle and pignoli—and a coffee and hanging out a while with some of the regulars.
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Fortunato Brothers
289 Manhattan Ave
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This sweets shop and cafe is a perfect spot for an after-dinner treat or cappuccino, what with how late it's open and how great a selection of classic Italian sweets it sells—from elaborate cakes to marzipan mussels to tempting gelato, and much more. I recommend getting an assortment of cookies—like the hazelnut sandwich cookies, sfogliatelle and pignoli—and a coffee and hanging out a while with some of the regulars.
This old-time bakery in Greenpoint, not too far from the apartment, is famous for its doughnuts. If you think cake doughnuts are dense and boring, the delicate crumb and craggy caramelized exterior of the wonders here will change your mind. The whole wheat doughnut (glazed or unglazed) is best. Toasted coconut's pretty good, too, and if they happen to have the apple strudel, get one. If you're feeling gluttonous, order a doughnut ice cream sandwich and split it with somebody.
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Peter Pan Donut & Pastry Shop
727 Manhattan Ave
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This old-time bakery in Greenpoint, not too far from the apartment, is famous for its doughnuts. If you think cake doughnuts are dense and boring, the delicate crumb and craggy caramelized exterior of the wonders here will change your mind. The whole wheat doughnut (glazed or unglazed) is best. Toasted coconut's pretty good, too, and if they happen to have the apple strudel, get one. If you're feeling gluttonous, order a doughnut ice cream sandwich and split it with somebody.
This local coffee mini-empire (OK, so they basically just serve Brooklyn) is a spacious, bright spot to pick up a cup of coffee nearby. I prefer it over Gimme Coffee, which is more famous (and more expensive), just down the block. Bonus: Oslo gets its phenomenal fruit-stuffed muffins from the fantastic Blue Sky Bakery. Eat them.
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Oslo Coffee Roasters
328 Bedford Ave
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This local coffee mini-empire (OK, so they basically just serve Brooklyn) is a spacious, bright spot to pick up a cup of coffee nearby. I prefer it over Gimme Coffee, which is more famous (and more expensive), just down the block. Bonus: Oslo gets its phenomenal fruit-stuffed muffins from the fantastic Blue Sky Bakery. Eat them.
Ice cream for foodies. Think unusual flavors like miso cherry, pecan pie or saffron passionfruit—and definitely spring for the homemade waffle cones you may witness somebody making.
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OddFellows Ice Cream Co. The Parlor
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Ice cream for foodies. Think unusual flavors like miso cherry, pecan pie or saffron passionfruit—and definitely spring for the homemade waffle cones you may witness somebody making.
You probably know it as the coffee place in "Girls." It's a little out of the way, but it does have great coffee.
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Café Grumpy - Greenpoint
193 Meserole Ave
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You probably know it as the coffee place in "Girls." It's a little out of the way, but it does have great coffee.
A red-sauce institution, and an epicenter of the aging local Italian-American community, even as ever more condos encroach. Have a drink at the bar while you wait for a table in the bustling throwback of a dining room, where elderly black-tie waiters will serve you giant baskets of bread and dishes like clams casino and famous house pork chop (both of which you should definitely order) — and where you'll almost definitely feel like an extra in "The Godfather" (minus the gunplay).
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Bamonte's
32 Withers St
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A red-sauce institution, and an epicenter of the aging local Italian-American community, even as ever more condos encroach. Have a drink at the bar while you wait for a table in the bustling throwback of a dining room, where elderly black-tie waiters will serve you giant baskets of bread and dishes like clams casino and famous house pork chop (both of which you should definitely order) — and where you'll almost definitely feel like an extra in "The Godfather" (minus the gunplay).
You won't be able to miss this inviting neighborhood Brazilian cafe and bar, just across the street from the apartment. It's a great spot for an iced coffee, a caipirinha or a plate of feijoada, and most of all for hearing some live bossa nova or other music.
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Beco
45 Richardson St
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You won't be able to miss this inviting neighborhood Brazilian cafe and bar, just across the street from the apartment. It's a great spot for an iced coffee, a caipirinha or a plate of feijoada, and most of all for hearing some live bossa nova or other music.
This linchpin of a modest neighborhood food empire is one of Williamsburg's original dining destinations, housed in a ramshackle old train car-looking space just south of the bridge. The menu is constantly changing (but for the famous burger), and the brunches come especially recommended, as do the sausages, sourced from sister meat market Marlow & Daughters a block away.
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Diner
85 Broadway
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This linchpin of a modest neighborhood food empire is one of Williamsburg's original dining destinations, housed in a ramshackle old train car-looking space just south of the bridge. The menu is constantly changing (but for the famous burger), and the brunches come especially recommended, as do the sausages, sourced from sister meat market Marlow & Daughters a block away.
Two excellent Korean-ish spots within blocks of each other on Broadway? And both are great? Yep. Kichin's where you'll get a quick take-out fix, but Dotory's where you'll come when you want more of a sit-down meal that's fresh, vegetable-forward, delicately flavored and carefully crafted. The noodle soup is excellent, the dumplings (they change each day) are often creative and the meatballs are excellently flavored and tender. Oh, and the anchovies with chilis are addictive.
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Dotory
353 Broadway
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Two excellent Korean-ish spots within blocks of each other on Broadway? And both are great? Yep. Kichin's where you'll get a quick take-out fix, but Dotory's where you'll come when you want more of a sit-down meal that's fresh, vegetable-forward, delicately flavored and carefully crafted. The noodle soup is excellent, the dumplings (they change each day) are often creative and the meatballs are excellently flavored and tender. Oh, and the anchovies with chilis are addictive.
If you're craving red meat but don't want to shell out for Peter Luger (the famous steakhouse down by the bridge), atmospheric Argentine standby El Almacen is a great choice. You can't go wrong with steaks like the entrana or churrasco; the morcilla, the hamachi ceviche and the hearts of palm salad are also highly recommended. There's a good selection of affordable South American red wines, and the backyard offers a great view of the quirky building.
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El Almacén
557 Driggs Ave
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If you're craving red meat but don't want to shell out for Peter Luger (the famous steakhouse down by the bridge), atmospheric Argentine standby El Almacen is a great choice. You can't go wrong with steaks like the entrana or churrasco; the morcilla, the hamachi ceviche and the hearts of palm salad are also highly recommended. There's a good selection of affordable South American red wines, and the backyard offers a great view of the quirky building.
Excellent food and cocktails with creative touches and bold but nuanced flavors. Appetizers, soups, specials and brunch are especially recommended, as are whiskey cocktails. It's a bit of a destination and can often involve a wait, so try going sometime other than peak dinner times.
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Five Leaves
18 Bedford Ave
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Excellent food and cocktails with creative touches and bold but nuanced flavors. Appetizers, soups, specials and brunch are especially recommended, as are whiskey cocktails. It's a bit of a destination and can often involve a wait, so try going sometime other than peak dinner times.
A magical, tucked-away spot ideal for brunch, a snack or an afternoon coffee or tea. This pleasant little hideaway (is it indoors or outdoors? Who cares?) serves small meals, many of them Japanese-tinged, along with coffee and tea.
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House of Small Wonder
77 N 6th St
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A magical, tucked-away spot ideal for brunch, a snack or an afternoon coffee or tea. This pleasant little hideaway (is it indoors or outdoors? Who cares?) serves small meals, many of them Japanese-tinged, along with coffee and tea.
Our new favorite Polish restaurant in Greenpoint, now that our standby Lomzynianka has closed. Karczma's pierogi are the best I've had in Greenpoint—clearly housemade—and their white borscht is a meal unto itself, coming as it does in a bread bowl with a side of bacon-topped potatoes. Also recommended: The pork hocks, stuffed cabbage and blood sausage. Get the dark beer that's on draft. The atmosphere here is authentically down-home, with wagons, a water well and other farm-like tchotchkes decorating the dining room, and with waitresses in dirdls.
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Karczma
136 Greenpoint Ave
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Our new favorite Polish restaurant in Greenpoint, now that our standby Lomzynianka has closed. Karczma's pierogi are the best I've had in Greenpoint—clearly housemade—and their white borscht is a meal unto itself, coming as it does in a bread bowl with a side of bacon-topped potatoes. Also recommended: The pork hocks, stuffed cabbage and blood sausage. Get the dark beer that's on draft. The atmosphere here is authentically down-home, with wagons, a water well and other farm-like tchotchkes decorating the dining room, and with waitresses in dirdls.
We're a little obsessed with this tiny corner spot for its excellent Korean fried chicken and its made-to-order rice balls (we love the spicy salmon, chicken and bulgogi ones especially—and be sure to get an extra cup of the delicious housemade herb sauce). Grab a seat at the narrow counter, or take your haul to go. The three-rice-balls-for-$10 deal is excellent, and more than a meal's worth of food.
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Baby's All Right
146 Broadway
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We're a little obsessed with this tiny corner spot for its excellent Korean fried chicken and its made-to-order rice balls (we love the spicy salmon, chicken and bulgogi ones especially—and be sure to get an extra cup of the delicious housemade herb sauce). Grab a seat at the narrow counter, or take your haul to go. The three-rice-balls-for-$10 deal is excellent, and more than a meal's worth of food.
This bright, airy restaurant serves creative, Israeli-inflected takes on an eclectic range of dishes, plus finely-concocted cocktails. It's all delicious, with an emphasis on fresh, well-sourced ingredients. Try the ceviche, carpaccio and whole fish, and at brunch, try the green omelette (yes, it's actually green) and the smoked trout dish.
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Lighthouse
145 Borinquen Pl
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This bright, airy restaurant serves creative, Israeli-inflected takes on an eclectic range of dishes, plus finely-concocted cocktails. It's all delicious, with an emphasis on fresh, well-sourced ingredients. Try the ceviche, carpaccio and whole fish, and at brunch, try the green omelette (yes, it's actually green) and the smoked trout dish.
This new Italian restaurant from revered chef Missy Robbins has gotten rave reviews, including three stars from The New York Times, especially for its pastas and seafood. You'll have to fight to get a table (tip: make a reservation, or show up late, after 10 pm), but it's one of the most talked-about and respected new restaurants in New York. There's an attached cafe you can stop in at during the day, too. We recommend the cacio e pepe fritelle, the clams with Calabrian chiles and a number of the pastas, especially the one with scungilli. The Vecchio Stile is a great cocktail.
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Lilia
567 Union Ave
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This new Italian restaurant from revered chef Missy Robbins has gotten rave reviews, including three stars from The New York Times, especially for its pastas and seafood. You'll have to fight to get a table (tip: make a reservation, or show up late, after 10 pm), but it's one of the most talked-about and respected new restaurants in New York. There's an attached cafe you can stop in at during the day, too. We recommend the cacio e pepe fritelle, the clams with Calabrian chiles and a number of the pastas, especially the one with scungilli. The Vecchio Stile is a great cocktail.
Want a good burger and a good beer? Nothing fancier than that? Try Mother's. It's essentially all they do. With quality beef, great sweet-potato fries and a long and often-changing beer menu, it's perfect when all you're craving is something as elemental as a hamburger and a beer.
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Mother's
347 Graham Ave
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Want a good burger and a good beer? Nothing fancier than that? Try Mother's. It's essentially all they do. With quality beef, great sweet-potato fries and a long and often-changing beer menu, it's perfect when all you're craving is something as elemental as a hamburger and a beer.
Some of the neighborhood's best pizza (unless you venture out to Bushwick), thanks in large part to a gorgeous tiled oven that turns out perfectly charred but pillowy crusts. The clam pie is rightfully famous. The Brussels sprout pizza is great, too, as are pizzas with the excellent tomato sauce. At lunch, you can get a pizza with a big bowl of salad for $12.
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Motorino Pizzeria
139 Broadway
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Some of the neighborhood's best pizza (unless you venture out to Bushwick), thanks in large part to a gorgeous tiled oven that turns out perfectly charred but pillowy crusts. The clam pie is rightfully famous. The Brussels sprout pizza is great, too, as are pizzas with the excellent tomato sauce. At lunch, you can get a pizza with a big bowl of salad for $12.
By day, this endearing and tiny (if a little twee) spot serves perfectly-portioned traditional Japanese breakfasts of fish, rice and soup; by night, it serves creative takes on ramen, including mazeman-style ramen, using carefully-sourced fish, meat and vegetables. Don't expect traditional big bowls of pork-heavy ramen; this stuff is on the lighter side — even the heavenly bacon+egg ramen (which you should order). Word to the wise: The prices may seem a little high, but that's because the restaurant does not accept tips.
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OKONOMI // YUJI Ramen
150 Ainslie St
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By day, this endearing and tiny (if a little twee) spot serves perfectly-portioned traditional Japanese breakfasts of fish, rice and soup; by night, it serves creative takes on ramen, including mazeman-style ramen, using carefully-sourced fish, meat and vegetables. Don't expect traditional big bowls of pork-heavy ramen; this stuff is on the lighter side — even the heavenly bacon+egg ramen (which you should order). Word to the wise: The prices may seem a little high, but that's because the restaurant does not accept tips.
This endearing cafe, which radiates Provençal sunniness, is a perfect spot for a brunch of savory crepes, perhaps with a dessert of sweet crepes. Try the L'Orientale (merguez sausage, peppers and an egg), La Bergere (goat cheese, figs, caramelized onions and rosemary) or La Poulette (mussels in a white wine cream sauce). For dessert, La Belle Helene (homemade chocolate, pears and almonds) can't be beat, though the coconut milkshake comes close.
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Pates et Traditions
52 Havemeyer St
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This endearing cafe, which radiates Provençal sunniness, is a perfect spot for a brunch of savory crepes, perhaps with a dessert of sweet crepes. Try the L'Orientale (merguez sausage, peppers and an egg), La Bergere (goat cheese, figs, caramelized onions and rosemary) or La Poulette (mussels in a white wine cream sauce). For dessert, La Belle Helene (homemade chocolate, pears and almonds) can't be beat, though the coconut milkshake comes close.
If you want a more traditional bowl of ramen—or some less traditional sushi rolls—try this bustling, attractive Japanese-ish spot just a block from Okonomi. They've also got a rotating selection of great cold noodle dishes.
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Suzume
545 Lorimer St
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If you want a more traditional bowl of ramen—or some less traditional sushi rolls—try this bustling, attractive Japanese-ish spot just a block from Okonomi. They've also got a rotating selection of great cold noodle dishes.

Essentials

This is the best nearby all-purpose supermarket, offering a good selection of normal foodstuffs as well as fancier stuff, plus decent produce. It's cramped, like most New York supermarkets.
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Foodtown of Williamsburg
159 N 3rd St
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This is the best nearby all-purpose supermarket, offering a good selection of normal foodstuffs as well as fancier stuff, plus decent produce. It's cramped, like most New York supermarkets.
Key Food is a little dingier and a little cheaper than Foodtown, but it's great if you're nearby.
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Key Food Supermarket
55 Fulton St
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Key Food is a little dingier and a little cheaper than Foodtown, but it's great if you're nearby.
Need some fresh homemade pasta to serve with those clams from Metropolitan Fish Market, or that Italian sausage from Lorimer Market? Turn to this place, which makes its own homemade long pasta and ravioli.
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Savino's Quality Pasta
111 Conselyea St
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Need some fresh homemade pasta to serve with those clams from Metropolitan Fish Market, or that Italian sausage from Lorimer Market? Turn to this place, which makes its own homemade long pasta and ravioli.
The best place around to buy fresh fish, save for the fishmongers at the greenmarket. This shop gets very fresh clams if you want to make spaghetti alla vongole.
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Metropolitan Fish Market
635 Metropolitan Ave
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The best place around to buy fresh fish, save for the fishmongers at the greenmarket. This shop gets very fresh clams if you want to make spaghetti alla vongole.
We're lucky to have this friendly, indispensible neighborhood institution so nearby. A butcher, a deli and a counter-service restaurant rolled into one, the Italian guys who run it are happy to grind you any cut of meat, weigh you some of their excellent house-made Italian sausage, make you a fancy sandwich (their meatball hero is famous) or serve you some of the mouthwatering Italian dishes on platters in the display case. (I say go for the avocado salad, the broccoli rabe, the meatballs, the rice balls, the escarole and the cavatelli. And pick up a Manhattan Special coffee soda, made just three blocks away on Manhattan Avenue, while you're at it.)
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Lorimer Street Station
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We're lucky to have this friendly, indispensible neighborhood institution so nearby. A butcher, a deli and a counter-service restaurant rolled into one, the Italian guys who run it are happy to grind you any cut of meat, weigh you some of their excellent house-made Italian sausage, make you a fancy sandwich (their meatball hero is famous) or serve you some of the mouthwatering Italian dishes on platters in the display case. (I say go for the avocado salad, the broccoli rabe, the meatballs, the rice balls, the escarole and the cavatelli. And pick up a Manhattan Special coffee soda, made just three blocks away on Manhattan Avenue, while you're at it.)
This large, overpriced market is basically an overgrown bodega with an emphasis on the organic. Pros: It's open 24 hours, it's nearby, it has a good selection of beer and it has some of the best produce nearby (not counting the Saturday morning greenmarket, of course).
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Khim's Millennium Market
260 Bushwick Ave
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This large, overpriced market is basically an overgrown bodega with an emphasis on the organic. Pros: It's open 24 hours, it's nearby, it has a good selection of beer and it has some of the best produce nearby (not counting the Saturday morning greenmarket, of course).
This is our go-to laundromat. It's open 24 hours, and it has a drop-off location next door in case you don't want to wait around for your laundry. You have to buy a $3 card to operate the machines; you can get your $3 back afterward if you turn it in to the employees.
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Metro Community Laundromat
561 Metropolitan Ave
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This is our go-to laundromat. It's open 24 hours, and it has a drop-off location next door in case you don't want to wait around for your laundry. You have to buy a $3 card to operate the machines; you can get your $3 back afterward if you turn it in to the employees.
This is our go-to dry cleaners. The woman who runs it is super sweet, and they can usually get you your clothes cleaned quickly if you ask.
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Top Hat Tailors & Cleaners
592 Lorimer St
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This is our go-to dry cleaners. The woman who runs it is super sweet, and they can usually get you your clothes cleaned quickly if you ask.
One of the tiniest shoe repair shops I've ever visited, which is saying something since they're always tiny. Also very cheap.
Yelena Shoe Repair
115 Meserole Ave
One of the tiniest shoe repair shops I've ever visited, which is saying something since they're always tiny. Also very cheap.

Shopping

Every Saturday morning till 2pm, a number of farmers, cheesemongers and fishermen from around New York City set up on Driggs Avenue just north of the apartment, next to the park, for a weekly market. Pick up fresh local produce here if you have the chance, and sample some local cheeses, beers, pickles, etc.
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McCarren Park Greenmarket
North 12th Street
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Every Saturday morning till 2pm, a number of farmers, cheesemongers and fishermen from around New York City set up on Driggs Avenue just north of the apartment, next to the park, for a weekly market. Pick up fresh local produce here if you have the chance, and sample some local cheeses, beers, pickles, etc.

Drinks & Nightlife

Pete's, once but no longer a candy store, is a neighborhood institution, a stone's throw from the apartment and my favorite bar in the neighborhood. It's a true neighborhood hangout with a great backyard, a well-made Manhattan, cheap happy hour beers and free live music every night—plus a hyper-competitive trivia night (Wednesdays).
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Pete's Candy Store
709 Lorimer St
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Pete's, once but no longer a candy store, is a neighborhood institution, a stone's throw from the apartment and my favorite bar in the neighborhood. It's a true neighborhood hangout with a great backyard, a well-made Manhattan, cheap happy hour beers and free live music every night—plus a hyper-competitive trivia night (Wednesdays).
This tiny beer shop-turned-bar in an out-of-the-way part of Greenpoint has a great rotating selection of beers on tap (and sometimes on cask), as well as a good variety of bottles. Get a few tastes of different beers to try at one of the picnic tables in the tiny backyard, or pick up a growler or something else to take home.
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Brouwerij Lane
78 Greenpoint Ave
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This tiny beer shop-turned-bar in an out-of-the-way part of Greenpoint has a great rotating selection of beers on tap (and sometimes on cask), as well as a good variety of bottles. Get a few tastes of different beers to try at one of the picnic tables in the tiny backyard, or pick up a growler or something else to take home.
The calling card of this vaguely nautical-themed spot, which feels like the underbelly of a ship and attracts a somewhat younger crowd, are its creative, delicious house-made punches, which you can get ladled into a cup or, if there are enough of you, in a big crystal bowl for your table to share.
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The Drink
228 Manhattan Avenue
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The calling card of this vaguely nautical-themed spot, which feels like the underbelly of a ship and attracts a somewhat younger crowd, are its creative, delicious house-made punches, which you can get ladled into a cup or, if there are enough of you, in a big crystal bowl for your table to share.
Cavernous but cozy wood-beamed bar with lots of good beers on tap, plus the sort of cement-block outdoor space that passes for a backyard in Brooklyn.
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Harefield Road
769 Metropolitan Ave
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Cavernous but cozy wood-beamed bar with lots of good beers on tap, plus the sort of cement-block outdoor space that passes for a backyard in Brooklyn.
Grown-up, elegant bar with an old-timey feel and classic cocktails.
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The Richardson
451 Graham Avenue
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Grown-up, elegant bar with an old-timey feel and classic cocktails.
Low-key, dimly lit spot with fantastic cocktails made from their housemade spirits. (You can peer into the distillery that makes them through the bar's picture windows.) Try anything involving their Dorothy Parker gin. Tip: On Monday nights, they have drink specials.
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The Shanty
79 Richardson St
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Low-key, dimly lit spot with fantastic cocktails made from their housemade spirits. (You can peer into the distillery that makes them through the bar's picture windows.) Try anything involving their Dorothy Parker gin. Tip: On Monday nights, they have drink specials.
The best local gay bar. It's relaxed, comfortable for both men and women, with a great back yard, a few fireplaces and a great karaoke night.
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Metropolitan
559 Lorimer St
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The best local gay bar. It's relaxed, comfortable for both men and women, with a great back yard, a few fireplaces and a great karaoke night.

Parks & Nature

No, we don't have a pool, but there is a giant public pool—once the city's largest—just a block and a half from the house. Follow the teenagers with towels around their necks, or just walk up Lorimer till you hear the sounds of summer. Warning: Get there early or it can be packed, with lines to get in.
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McCarren Hotel & Pool
160 N 12th St
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No, we don't have a pool, but there is a giant public pool—once the city's largest—just a block and a half from the house. Follow the teenagers with towels around their necks, or just walk up Lorimer till you hear the sounds of summer. Warning: Get there early or it can be packed, with lines to get in.

Getting Around

This is the Lorimer Street subway station, one of the two closest stations to the apartment. (The other is the Bedford Avenue station.) Unlike Bedford, this station lets you transfer to the G train.
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Lorimer Street Station
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This is the Lorimer Street subway station, one of the two closest stations to the apartment. (The other is the Bedford Avenue station.) Unlike Bedford, this station lets you transfer to the G train.
The Bedford Avenue station of the L train. Exit at the Driggs Avenue end; it's closer to the apartment.
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Bedford Av station
Bedford Avenue
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The Bedford Avenue station of the L train. Exit at the Driggs Avenue end; it's closer to the apartment.