Guidebook for San Francisco
Drinks & Nightlife
This is a proper London boozer. Inside its corner facade, it has really dark walls, 100 years of smoke in the carpet, an old till that makes a “ping” noise. The guy behind the bar is always kind of surly. They won’t give you a glass of water, and there’s no food, but it’s got a great atmosphere and really good live music.
It’s cash only, so bring your reddies, as the ATM is a long walk away.
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The Palm Tree Pub
127 Grove RdThis is a proper London boozer. Inside its corner facade, it has really dark walls, 100 years of smoke in the carpet, an old till that makes a “ping” noise. The guy behind the bar is always kind of surly. They won’t give you a glass of water, and there’s no food, but it’s got a great atmosphere and really good live music.
It’s cash only, so bring your reddies, as the ATM is a long walk away.
A 500-year-old pub with a great atmosphere. It’s really narrow, like a little corridor, and is so quirky. It’s right at the Limehouse Basin where you first come in off the Thames and moor your barge on the canal, your first respite from stormy waters. If you go through to the back, it looks out onto the Thames—you can see the trip boats go past.
The actor Ian McKellen is a leaseholder, and he’s trying to keep it as a traditional old boozer. Go for the Monday night pub quiz at 8 pm. The first half you think you’re doing well, then the second half goes really left-field—it’s impossible. A great night of London fun.
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The Grapes
153 Milton RdA 500-year-old pub with a great atmosphere. It’s really narrow, like a little corridor, and is so quirky. It’s right at the Limehouse Basin where you first come in off the Thames and moor your barge on the canal, your first respite from stormy waters. If you go through to the back, it looks out onto the Thames—you can see the trip boats go past.
The actor Ian McKellen is a leaseholder, and he’s trying to keep it as a traditional old boozer. Go for the Monday night pub quiz at 8 pm. The first half you think you’re doing well, then the second half goes really left-field—it’s impossible. A great night of London fun.
Sightseeing
A floating red pagoda—what’s not to love? This Chinese restaurant in a fantastic location on the corner of the Regent’s Canal at the bottom of Primrose Hill is a really fun dining experience. It’s romantic, with dim lighting and red interiors, so gets lots of couples on dates. It also makes you think of Chinatown or a Jackie Chan film set.
People come more for the atmosphere than the food, but the salt and pepper soft-shell crab is delectable, with just the right level of crunch and spice.
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Feng Shang Princess
Prince Albert RoadA floating red pagoda—what’s not to love? This Chinese restaurant in a fantastic location on the corner of the Regent’s Canal at the bottom of Primrose Hill is a really fun dining experience. It’s romantic, with dim lighting and red interiors, so gets lots of couples on dates. It also makes you think of Chinatown or a Jackie Chan film set.
People come more for the atmosphere than the food, but the salt and pepper soft-shell crab is delectable, with just the right level of crunch and spice.
The Islington Tunnel is 3/4 mile of darkness and calm. Historically, before boats were motorised, there were chains to pull your way through, or someone would lie on the roof of the boat and walk the boat along with his feet on the tunnel ceiling.
If you don’t have your own boat, book a ride on one with a driver. From May to October, the London Canal Museum runs passenger trips through the tunnel, as does Hidden Depths Canal Cruises and Vestal Voyages, a floating distillery and cocktail bar from Vestal Vodka.
Islington Tunnel
Colebrooke RowThe Islington Tunnel is 3/4 mile of darkness and calm. Historically, before boats were motorised, there were chains to pull your way through, or someone would lie on the roof of the boat and walk the boat along with his feet on the tunnel ceiling.
If you don’t have your own boat, book a ride on one with a driver. From May to October, the London Canal Museum runs passenger trips through the tunnel, as does Hidden Depths Canal Cruises and Vestal Voyages, a floating distillery and cocktail bar from Vestal Vodka.
Row upon row of narrow boats are moored up next to each other at this exciting boating community. It’s like terraced housing for boats, with little gardens on top of and next to them. Everyone knows each other, and everyone’s cats explore each other’s boats.
Lovely pubs and cafes line the canal here. For a floating experience, have tea and cake at the Waterside Cafe boat, where the carrot cake is deelish. The Prince Alfred pub does a great Sunday roast: perfect Yorkshire pudding, rare beef, loads of gravy.
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Λίτλ Βενετία
6 Warwick AveRow upon row of narrow boats are moored up next to each other at this exciting boating community. It’s like terraced housing for boats, with little gardens on top of and next to them. Everyone knows each other, and everyone’s cats explore each other’s boats.
Lovely pubs and cafes line the canal here. For a floating experience, have tea and cake at the Waterside Cafe boat, where the carrot cake is deelish. The Prince Alfred pub does a great Sunday roast: perfect Yorkshire pudding, rare beef, loads of gravy.
At the end of trendy Broadway Market, this is a great place to sit with a picnic and enjoy the smell of diesel as you watch boats bump by. Try to get a ride on one. I’ve had a lot of people jump on mine, especially here as it’s a boozy area. No one’s fallen in, but my keys did once. I tried to use a magnet to find them, but pulled up a scooter, a pram, no keys.
Grab a Franco Manca sourdough pizza and bottle of prosecco for the full Venetian canal vibe. Or head to the Market Cafe, which does a banging Aperol spritz.
Acton's Lock Apartments
129 Pritchard's RdAt the end of trendy Broadway Market, this is a great place to sit with a picnic and enjoy the smell of diesel as you watch boats bump by. Try to get a ride on one. I’ve had a lot of people jump on mine, especially here as it’s a boozy area. No one’s fallen in, but my keys did once. I tried to use a magnet to find them, but pulled up a scooter, a pram, no keys.
Grab a Franco Manca sourdough pizza and bottle of prosecco for the full Venetian canal vibe. Or head to the Market Cafe, which does a banging Aperol spritz.
Parks & Nature
Walk along the beautiful stretch of towpath beside Regent’s Park. London Zoo is on either side of you: You’ll pass the aviary and see the birds for free, with the African hunting dogs opposite, though you rarely see them. Further west there are gaudy, opulent mansions whose gardens roll down to the water, with little boats tied at their pontoons.
Early in the morning you get the full cacophony of howler monkeys and gibbons from the zoo.
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Πάρκο του Ρίτζεντ
Walk along the beautiful stretch of towpath beside Regent’s Park. London Zoo is on either side of you: You’ll pass the aviary and see the birds for free, with the African hunting dogs opposite, though you rarely see them. Further west there are gaudy, opulent mansions whose gardens roll down to the water, with little boats tied at their pontoons.
Early in the morning you get the full cacophony of howler monkeys and gibbons from the zoo.
Arts & Culture
I feel as though I should really champion the waterways here, and I’d love for more people to learn about the history behind London’s man-made waterways at this museum. It’s a quirky and antiquated gem in a cute little spot on the canal side, and will send you back in time to when horsepower was real horsepower.
It’s open Tuesday to Sunday and is £4 entry. A lovely way to start or end a canal walk.
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London Canal Museum
12/13 New Wharf RdI feel as though I should really champion the waterways here, and I’d love for more people to learn about the history behind London’s man-made waterways at this museum. It’s a quirky and antiquated gem in a cute little spot on the canal side, and will send you back in time to when horsepower was real horsepower.
It’s open Tuesday to Sunday and is £4 entry. A lovely way to start or end a canal walk.
Shopping
London’s only floating bookshop, this has become one of the great landmarks of the city’s canals. It sometimes moves between Kings Cross and Victoria Park but has a permanent home at Granary Square behind Kings Cross. Walking along the canals to find it is all part of the fun. It sometimes hosts gigs and poetry readings.
I’ve moored up next to the owner before, a proper stalwart of the canals. He was living on them when they were just empty waterways, long before all the hipster stuff opened five or so years ago.
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Word On The Water - The London Bookbarge
Regent's Canal TowpathLondon’s only floating bookshop, this has become one of the great landmarks of the city’s canals. It sometimes moves between Kings Cross and Victoria Park but has a permanent home at Granary Square behind Kings Cross. Walking along the canals to find it is all part of the fun. It sometimes hosts gigs and poetry readings.
I’ve moored up next to the owner before, a proper stalwart of the canals. He was living on them when they were just empty waterways, long before all the hipster stuff opened five or so years ago.