Lucía’s must-do BA Guide
Restaurants
La Cabrera, a parrilla with a touch of finesse. Order an eye-popping 800g slab of juicy meat and enjoy it with an array of condiments, such as sweet potato mash and roasted garlic. Tourists love it, so expect to stand outside with a handful of others until a table becomes free. Fortunately the waiters are kind enough to hand out free Champagne while you wait.
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La Cabrera
5127 José A. CabreraLa Cabrera, a parrilla with a touch of finesse. Order an eye-popping 800g slab of juicy meat and enjoy it with an array of condiments, such as sweet potato mash and roasted garlic. Tourists love it, so expect to stand outside with a handful of others until a table becomes free. Fortunately the waiters are kind enough to hand out free Champagne while you wait.
Don Julio, an unpretentious family-run parrilla. Enjoy top-grade cuts of bife de chorizo and bife de lomo washed down with a selection of over 150 wines.
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Don Julio Parrilla
4699 GuatemalaDon Julio, an unpretentious family-run parrilla. Enjoy top-grade cuts of bife de chorizo and bife de lomo washed down with a selection of over 150 wines.
Make sure you get a table on their great terrace, the best place to enjoy amazing cocktails (pisco sour is a must!) and arguably one of the most delicious sushi and ceviches in town! Located in the heart of Palermo Hollywood.
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La Mar
2024 ArévaloMake sure you get a table on their great terrace, the best place to enjoy amazing cocktails (pisco sour is a must!) and arguably one of the most delicious sushi and ceviches in town! Located in the heart of Palermo Hollywood.
Seafood often plays second fiddle in Buenos Aires but, fortunately, the chefs at Crizia do it with pride. The dim lighting provides the perfect setting for tasty plates of oysters, ceviche and grilled red tuna in addition to Patagonian lamb and the standard ojo de bife.
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Crizia Restaurante
1819 Fitz RoySeafood often plays second fiddle in Buenos Aires but, fortunately, the chefs at Crizia do it with pride. The dim lighting provides the perfect setting for tasty plates of oysters, ceviche and grilled red tuna in addition to Patagonian lamb and the standard ojo de bife.
Want Japanese food that isn’t sushi? Check out Fukuro Noodle Bar for its ramen, pork buns, and milk and cookies, which are inspired by New York’s Momofuku Milk Bar.
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Fukuro Noodle Bar
1940 Costa RicaWant Japanese food that isn’t sushi? Check out Fukuro Noodle Bar for its ramen, pork buns, and milk and cookies, which are inspired by New York’s Momofuku Milk Bar.
Tasty Vietnamese cuisine and a romantic setting are on offer at Green Bamboo, which, having been around since 2011, is something of an Asian-cuisine stalwart. It’s on the pricey side, but there's no short supply of hard-to-find ingredients here: ginger, cori- ander and lemon grass, among others.
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Green Bamboo Vietnamese restaurant
5802 Costa RicaTasty Vietnamese cuisine and a romantic setting are on offer at Green Bamboo, which, having been around since 2011, is something of an Asian-cuisine stalwart. It’s on the pricey side, but there's no short supply of hard-to-find ingredients here: ginger, cori- ander and lemon grass, among others.
Tigre Morado
5900 Dr. Emilio RavignaniRoux
2300 PeñaTinta restaurante & bar
5621 José A. CabreraMercado de Liniers Restaurante
6012 GorritiOSTEN restaurante & bar
1890 Juana MansoApu Nena
1600 Av. DorregoSunae Asian Cantina
1626 HumboldtMishiguene
3368 LafinurFAYER Buenos Aires
4417 Avenida CerviñoHappening Costanera
7030 Av. Costanera Rafael ObligadoGardiner Restaurant
6311 Av. Costanera Rafael ObligadoParu Deli Cerviño
3812 Av. CerviñoEl Quinto Cocina Asiática
6248 Av. del LibertadorCafés
The Palermo Soho crew love their healthy options, and Fifí Almacén is currently right up there with the best. Start your day off with an organic yogurt and homemade granola, stop by at lunch for tasty soups or indulge in a midday snack of fruit-filled muffins. Check the chalkboards for daily specials and sales on organic products. There's even a good selection of craft beers.
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Fifi Almacén
4812 GorritiThe Palermo Soho crew love their healthy options, and Fifí Almacén is currently right up there with the best. Start your day off with an organic yogurt and homemade granola, stop by at lunch for tasty soups or indulge in a midday snack of fruit-filled muffins. Check the chalkboards for daily specials and sales on organic products. There's even a good selection of craft beers.
The coffee is great and brewed by experienced baristas. The menu stretches from macchiato and cappuccino to drip coffee, plus there’s a good selection of tea. The cakes and pastries
– the banana cheesecake is particularly tasty – provide the perfect accompaniment. Hungrier visitors can tuck into hearty burgers and sandwiches, salads, or a decent weekend brunch.
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Ninina
4738 GorritiThe coffee is great and brewed by experienced baristas. The menu stretches from macchiato and cappuccino to drip coffee, plus there’s a good selection of tea. The cakes and pastries
– the banana cheesecake is particularly tasty – provide the perfect accompaniment. Hungrier visitors can tuck into hearty burgers and sandwiches, salads, or a decent weekend brunch.
La Biela
596 Pres. Manuel QuintanaCafe Tortoni
825 Av. de MayoCoco Café
3794 CabelloLunch
While in the area, don’t miss El Preferido de Palermo, set inside an old general store. Since opening in 1952 it’s stayed true to its traditions and continues to serve up hearty portions of tapas, picadas and calamari, among other things.
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Almacén de Pizzas
1994 Fitz RoyWhile in the area, don’t miss El Preferido de Palermo, set inside an old general store. Since opening in 1952 it’s stayed true to its traditions and continues to serve up hearty portions of tapas, picadas and calamari, among other things.
Sacro
6038 Costa RicaMUDRÁ Plant-Based
3942 Avenida CórdobaChuí
1250 LoyolaCroque Madame
1902 Av. del LibertadorBars
For something a bit different, head to The Harrison Speakeasy, a secret password-protected bar. The bartenders are serious about mixology, and if hunger strikes you can get some of the city’s best sushi at the bar’s Nicky New York restaurant. All you need now is the password (hint: eat dinner at Nicky New York and ask the waiter)!
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Nicky NY Sushi
1764 MalabiaFor something a bit different, head to The Harrison Speakeasy, a secret password-protected bar. The bartenders are serious about mixology, and if hunger strikes you can get some of the city’s best sushi at the bar’s Nicky New York restaurant. All you need now is the password (hint: eat dinner at Nicky New York and ask the waiter)!
Florería Atlántico has been on the 50 Top Best Bars several years in a row. Chic and disguised; first you need to find the flower-and-wine shop and then look for an industrial freezer door, which opens to a staircase that leads to this cocktail haven. The drink menu is inspired by Argentine immigration and there's a page dedicated to the big players, such as Italy, Spain and France. Be sure to sample the refreshing house-distilled gin, which contains yerba mate, eucalyptus and mint. Food wise, you can choose from tapas, grilled meats, octopus and a host of innovative dishes.
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Floreria Atlántico
872 ArroyoFlorería Atlántico has been on the 50 Top Best Bars several years in a row. Chic and disguised; first you need to find the flower-and-wine shop and then look for an industrial freezer door, which opens to a staircase that leads to this cocktail haven. The drink menu is inspired by Argentine immigration and there's a page dedicated to the big players, such as Italy, Spain and France. Be sure to sample the refreshing house-distilled gin, which contains yerba mate, eucalyptus and mint. Food wise, you can choose from tapas, grilled meats, octopus and a host of innovative dishes.
Uptown
2030 ArévaloINVERNADERO
Crystal Bar
1130 Aimé PainéCullen Henderson Bar
1106 Av. Álvarez ThomasNeighborhoods
Buenos Aires’ largest barrio by area, Palermo beckons swarms of expats and vacationers – and an ever-growing number of porteños – to its tree-lined streets. Regardless of where you choose to live or stay, most of the people you know and meet in the city will live in Palermo. Even if they don’t, you’ll still wind up here to take advantage of its boundless cafes, restaurants, bars, nightclubs, parks, museums, galleries, shops and artisanal markets. And because it's so large, Palermo is broken up into several sub-barrios. We've laid out the most notable areas in the pages ahead.
Palermo Soho, so named for its supposed likeness to New York’s Soho District, is the vibrant area of the bohemian sub-barrio known as Palermo Viejo. It sits between Santa Fé, Coronel Díaz, Córdoba and Juan B. Justo streets. This is one of the trendier parts of Palermo (along with Palermo
Hollywood) and a favorite haunt of hipsters and designers. It’s home to tree-lined cobblestone streets where new businesses continue to spring up in old Spanish-style homes and converted warehouses.
The Palermo Soho area oozes innovation; it’s young, fresh and international. It’s the place to sip a cortado while sitting on the terrace of a chic cafe. It’s the place to browse market stalls and independent boutiques for the latest fashions. It’s the place to seek out the newest low-key bar, catch up on emails at a co-working space or simply wander the streets and blend in with the cool crowd.
Palermo Hollywood, like neighboring Palermo Soho, is part of the sub-barrio known as Palermo Viejo. Laid-back by day, it springs to life at night when sharply dressed porteños come out to play at the hordes of bars, restaurants and nightclubs in the area. Why the name Hollywood? Several radio and television studios make their home here, which also means you might spot a celebrity enjoying brunch on a cobblestone side street or stumbling out of a club in the early hours. The neighborhood lies between Juan B. Justo, Córdoba, Dorrego and Santa Fe/Carranza streets.
While Palermo Soho is known for its shops, Palermo Hollywood is all about restaurants and bars. Scattered around an area of approximately 20 square blocks is Buenos Aires’ largest concentration of eating and drinking establishments. Find everything from traditional parrillas to Asian-fusion eateries; fast-food joints to closed-door restaurants; secret bars to swanky lounges; and live-music venues to quiet rooftop terraces.
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Palermo
Buenos Aires’ largest barrio by area, Palermo beckons swarms of expats and vacationers – and an ever-growing number of porteños – to its tree-lined streets. Regardless of where you choose to live or stay, most of the people you know and meet in the city will live in Palermo. Even if they don’t, you’ll still wind up here to take advantage of its boundless cafes, restaurants, bars, nightclubs, parks, museums, galleries, shops and artisanal markets. And because it's so large, Palermo is broken up into several sub-barrios. We've laid out the most notable areas in the pages ahead.
Palermo Soho, so named for its supposed likeness to New York’s Soho District, is the vibrant area of the bohemian sub-barrio known as Palermo Viejo. It sits between Santa Fé, Coronel Díaz, Córdoba and Juan B. Justo streets. This is one of the trendier parts of Palermo (along with Palermo
Hollywood) and a favorite haunt of hipsters and designers. It’s home to tree-lined cobblestone streets where new businesses continue to spring up in old Spanish-style homes and converted warehouses.
The Palermo Soho area oozes innovation; it’s young, fresh and international. It’s the place to sip a cortado while sitting on the terrace of a chic cafe. It’s the place to browse market stalls and independent boutiques for the latest fashions. It’s the place to seek out the newest low-key bar, catch up on emails at a co-working space or simply wander the streets and blend in with the cool crowd.
Palermo Hollywood, like neighboring Palermo Soho, is part of the sub-barrio known as Palermo Viejo. Laid-back by day, it springs to life at night when sharply dressed porteños come out to play at the hordes of bars, restaurants and nightclubs in the area. Why the name Hollywood? Several radio and television studios make their home here, which also means you might spot a celebrity enjoying brunch on a cobblestone side street or stumbling out of a club in the early hours. The neighborhood lies between Juan B. Justo, Córdoba, Dorrego and Santa Fe/Carranza streets.
While Palermo Soho is known for its shops, Palermo Hollywood is all about restaurants and bars. Scattered around an area of approximately 20 square blocks is Buenos Aires’ largest concentration of eating and drinking establishments. Find everything from traditional parrillas to Asian-fusion eateries; fast-food joints to closed-door restaurants; secret bars to swanky lounges; and live-music venues to quiet rooftop terraces.
With its lavish, stately homes and plush hotels, Recoleta is considered by many to be the most affluent neighborhood in Buenos Aires. It is also an area of immense historical interest, with the impressive Recoleta Cemetery sitting at its center.
Recoleta is situated directly northeast of Buenos Aires City Center and shares a border with Almagro, Palermo and Retiro. The barrio's popularity began toward the latter part of the 19th century, when an 1871 outbreak of yellow fever in the southern suburbs forced the city’s residents to seek refuge elsewhere. While the poor headed south, the wealthier families chose Recoleta due to its higher terrain, which protected it against disease-carrying insects.
With the migration to Recoleta came inevitable development, and new residents were quick to capitalize on the area's large estates by dividing them into smaller plots and building upon them. The transformation into a residential barrio was a quick process and the estates were soon replaced with the luxurious, stately homes for which the neighborhood is famed today.
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Recoleta
With its lavish, stately homes and plush hotels, Recoleta is considered by many to be the most affluent neighborhood in Buenos Aires. It is also an area of immense historical interest, with the impressive Recoleta Cemetery sitting at its center.
Recoleta is situated directly northeast of Buenos Aires City Center and shares a border with Almagro, Palermo and Retiro. The barrio's popularity began toward the latter part of the 19th century, when an 1871 outbreak of yellow fever in the southern suburbs forced the city’s residents to seek refuge elsewhere. While the poor headed south, the wealthier families chose Recoleta due to its higher terrain, which protected it against disease-carrying insects.
With the migration to Recoleta came inevitable development, and new residents were quick to capitalize on the area's large estates by dividing them into smaller plots and building upon them. The transformation into a residential barrio was a quick process and the estates were soon replaced with the luxurious, stately homes for which the neighborhood is famed today.
Once known as one of the wealthiest neighborhoods in Buenos Aires, Retiro is recognized today as being the busiest overland transportation hub and home to many of the city’s five-star hotels. It’s located directly north of Buenos Aires Centro, bordered by Puerto Madero to the southeast, San Nicolás to the south and Recoleta to the west. The barrio takes its name from the Casa de Retiro, built by Governor Agustín de Robles at the beginning of the 18th century. It sits at the intersection of Arenales and Maipú streets, which was once occupied by the hermit dwelling of San Sebastián, said to date back to 1608. Shortly after its construction, Casa de Retiro was sold to the South Sea company and served as a home for the first slaves to arrive in the city.
The first known development of Retiro began in 1800 with the construction of Plaza de Toros, a bullring whose outline is still visible in Plaza San Martín. During the English inva- sion, the area witnessed the scene of a significant battle, af- ter which it was given the name of Campo de Gloria (Field of Glory). This was also where General José de San Martín gave orders to his grenadiers, and the bullring eventually became the general’s barracks and training grounds.
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Retiro
Once known as one of the wealthiest neighborhoods in Buenos Aires, Retiro is recognized today as being the busiest overland transportation hub and home to many of the city’s five-star hotels. It’s located directly north of Buenos Aires Centro, bordered by Puerto Madero to the southeast, San Nicolás to the south and Recoleta to the west. The barrio takes its name from the Casa de Retiro, built by Governor Agustín de Robles at the beginning of the 18th century. It sits at the intersection of Arenales and Maipú streets, which was once occupied by the hermit dwelling of San Sebastián, said to date back to 1608. Shortly after its construction, Casa de Retiro was sold to the South Sea company and served as a home for the first slaves to arrive in the city.
The first known development of Retiro began in 1800 with the construction of Plaza de Toros, a bullring whose outline is still visible in Plaza San Martín. During the English inva- sion, the area witnessed the scene of a significant battle, af- ter which it was given the name of Campo de Gloria (Field of Glory). This was also where General José de San Martín gave orders to his grenadiers, and the bullring eventually became the general’s barracks and training grounds.
Puerto Madero, overlooking the waterfront on the east side of the city, is one of Buenos Aires’ newest barrios. With glis- tening glass-fronted skyscrapers, contemporary apartment blocks and five-star hotels set along perfect – and pothole-free– streets, it’s unlike any other barrio in the city. Tourists and locals either love it or hate it; some say it’s staid and soulless while others bask in its modernity and affluence. Beneath its luxuriousness, Puerto Madero is also home to museums and art galleries, impressive architecture and one of the city’s finest nature areas.
Times weren't always flush in Puerto Madero. The area was once Buenos Aires’ main port and shipping yard, built at the end of the 1800s to accommodate cargo ships. However, with the introduction of larger ships came a need for a more accessible port, and Puerto Madero closed as a dockyard in 1911. For the better part of a century, the area lay abandoned. Then, someone got the idea to inject some much-needed cash into the area, creating a new and exclusive barrio. The rust- ing ships were removed; the old redbrick warehouses were turned into restaurants, bars and offices; and Miami-style apartment blocks began to spring up by the dozen.
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Puerto Madero
Puerto Madero, overlooking the waterfront on the east side of the city, is one of Buenos Aires’ newest barrios. With glis- tening glass-fronted skyscrapers, contemporary apartment blocks and five-star hotels set along perfect – and pothole-free– streets, it’s unlike any other barrio in the city. Tourists and locals either love it or hate it; some say it’s staid and soulless while others bask in its modernity and affluence. Beneath its luxuriousness, Puerto Madero is also home to museums and art galleries, impressive architecture and one of the city’s finest nature areas.
Times weren't always flush in Puerto Madero. The area was once Buenos Aires’ main port and shipping yard, built at the end of the 1800s to accommodate cargo ships. However, with the introduction of larger ships came a need for a more accessible port, and Puerto Madero closed as a dockyard in 1911. For the better part of a century, the area lay abandoned. Then, someone got the idea to inject some much-needed cash into the area, creating a new and exclusive barrio. The rust- ing ships were removed; the old redbrick warehouses were turned into restaurants, bars and offices; and Miami-style apartment blocks began to spring up by the dozen.