Michele's Guidebook to Genoa
Sightseeing
Genoa’s historical city centre with its old alleys ( called ‘carrugi’) is one of the biggest, most beautiful and best preserved city centers in all of Europe. I myself have visited more than 100 countries and I am a Roman which means I am quite spoilt and blasé - still the old streets of the Centre of Genoa still give me a kick every time I visit them. You can start exploring by taking via Balbi just opposite the Príncipe station (minutes away from the apartment) and then continue on via Balbi and admire the beautiful buildings on both sides including the spectacular Palazzo Reale (a must see on the inside) or the picturesque Piazza Santa Brígida. Then take a look at the inside of the Annmunciata Cathedral and continue on Via Garibaldi (Strada Nuova) where the most luxurious palaces of Genova (the Rolli) are. From there get lost in the hundreds of alleys and see the gritty life of Genoa’s artisans, prostituted and shops unfold - it feels like stepping back to the Middle Ages - you will see here the heart of the city, that Lonely Planet once described as the most Dickensian of European cities! Watch your wallet and you will be alright! There is enough for spending the whole day! Don’t miss the San Lorenzo Cathedral and its unexploded bomb from the Second World War still showing inside the church!
Via Balbi
Via BalbiGenoa’s historical city centre with its old alleys ( called ‘carrugi’) is one of the biggest, most beautiful and best preserved city centers in all of Europe. I myself have visited more than 100 countries and I am a Roman which means I am quite spoilt and blasé - still the old streets of the Centre of Genoa still give me a kick every time I visit them. You can start exploring by taking via Balbi just opposite the Príncipe station (minutes away from the apartment) and then continue on via Balbi and admire the beautiful buildings on both sides including the spectacular Palazzo Reale (a must see on the inside) or the picturesque Piazza Santa Brígida. Then take a look at the inside of the Annmunciata Cathedral and continue on Via Garibaldi (Strada Nuova) where the most luxurious palaces of Genova (the Rolli) are. From there get lost in the hundreds of alleys and see the gritty life of Genoa’s artisans, prostituted and shops unfold - it feels like stepping back to the Middle Ages - you will see here the heart of the city, that Lonely Planet once described as the most Dickensian of European cities! Watch your wallet and you will be alright! There is enough for spending the whole day! Don’t miss the San Lorenzo Cathedral and its unexploded bomb from the Second World War still showing inside the church!
Piazza Dante and the Piacentini Skyscraper tells a totally different story of a Genoa that never was. Before the Second World War Mussolini had a vision: to create a very Italian version of the American Rust Belt, centered around the Italian industrial triangle made of Milan, the financial capital, Turin, the industrial capitol and Genoa, the trade capital - which he was planning on fashioning after the lower part of Manhattan, New York. The project started and the first output was Piazza Dante- if you look closely at the building you can see a strong resemblance with the area of New York built around Ground Zero with its first rudimentary skyscrapers. The war halted Mussolini dreams but the piazza Dante is still there to witness an Italian New York that never was! Coincidentally the square is also interesting because of the House of Cristopher Columbus and the Porta Soprana which is a beautiful medieval door to the city. Both were actually moved here form other sides of the city making this square a true melting pot of styles!
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Piazza Dante
Piazza Dante and the Piacentini Skyscraper tells a totally different story of a Genoa that never was. Before the Second World War Mussolini had a vision: to create a very Italian version of the American Rust Belt, centered around the Italian industrial triangle made of Milan, the financial capital, Turin, the industrial capitol and Genoa, the trade capital - which he was planning on fashioning after the lower part of Manhattan, New York. The project started and the first output was Piazza Dante- if you look closely at the building you can see a strong resemblance with the area of New York built around Ground Zero with its first rudimentary skyscrapers. The war halted Mussolini dreams but the piazza Dante is still there to witness an Italian New York that never was! Coincidentally the square is also interesting because of the House of Cristopher Columbus and the Porta Soprana which is a beautiful medieval door to the city. Both were actually moved here form other sides of the city making this square a true melting pot of styles!
De Albertis Castle is a magical place only a walk away from Miramare - if you look outside the balcony to the left you will aeee it perched on a hill in all it’s neo-gothic splendor. The castle is from the end of the 19th century and reproduces the middle age castle style common in the Aosta region, near France. The owner of the castle, De Albertis himself was a an explorer who collected items from everywhere in the world and decorated the castle to reflect all the different parts of the world like Asia, Middle East and Oceania .. the garden around the castle offers a beautiful view of the city but what is incredible is the beauty and variety of the interiors - breath-taking! This might be the best place in Genoa! And if you are in for an extra quirky experience you can get there by walking to the square in front of the Principe Staton and take the only horizontal / vertical elevator in the world! For one euro it will take you right in front the castle entrance! And the experience is unique! Try it!
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Castello d'Albertis
18 Corso DogaliDe Albertis Castle is a magical place only a walk away from Miramare - if you look outside the balcony to the left you will aeee it perched on a hill in all it’s neo-gothic splendor. The castle is from the end of the 19th century and reproduces the middle age castle style common in the Aosta region, near France. The owner of the castle, De Albertis himself was a an explorer who collected items from everywhere in the world and decorated the castle to reflect all the different parts of the world like Asia, Middle East and Oceania .. the garden around the castle offers a beautiful view of the city but what is incredible is the beauty and variety of the interiors - breath-taking! This might be the best place in Genoa! And if you are in for an extra quirky experience you can get there by walking to the square in front of the Principe Staton and take the only horizontal / vertical elevator in the world! For one euro it will take you right in front the castle entrance! And the experience is unique! Try it!
Villa Pallavicino is one of the most beautiful urban parks of Italy and one of Genoa’s best kept secrets! The park is in the area of Pegli - a couple of train stops away from Principe and around 20 minutes. The park is very big and can take up to a good few hours to visit. The park was created by Masonic architects who engineered it like a purification path where the person walking through it starts in a confused spiritual space and finishes at the end fully purified. The little castle inside with the colored windows and the green lake at the end are the highlight! Not sure if I came out fully purified out of the park but I certainly never forgot the beauty of the place! If it’s summer make sure you bring your swimming gear and head to the nearby beach for a nice swim after the park!
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Villa Durazzo Pallavicini
13 Via Ignazio PallaviciniVilla Pallavicino is one of the most beautiful urban parks of Italy and one of Genoa’s best kept secrets! The park is in the area of Pegli - a couple of train stops away from Principe and around 20 minutes. The park is very big and can take up to a good few hours to visit. The park was created by Masonic architects who engineered it like a purification path where the person walking through it starts in a confused spiritual space and finishes at the end fully purified. The little castle inside with the colored windows and the green lake at the end are the highlight! Not sure if I came out fully purified out of the park but I certainly never forgot the beauty of the place! If it’s summer make sure you bring your swimming gear and head to the nearby beach for a nice swim after the park!
Everybody have heard about the Cinque Terre - the lovely picturesque villages about an hour south of Genoa - but very few know that a very similar enchanted village lies right in the heart of the city of Genoa. Go early on a summer day, bring your towel and take a place in the sun, buy a Panera ice cream (a mix of coffee and ice cream typical of this part of Italy) and enjoy the Day - and don’t forget your swimming suit!
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Boccadasse
Everybody have heard about the Cinque Terre - the lovely picturesque villages about an hour south of Genoa - but very few know that a very similar enchanted village lies right in the heart of the city of Genoa. Go early on a summer day, bring your towel and take a place in the sun, buy a Panera ice cream (a mix of coffee and ice cream typical of this part of Italy) and enjoy the Day - and don’t forget your swimming suit!
No visit to Genoa would be complete without at least one hike to the Forts. The city of Genoa is surrounded by old forts that were used to prophecy the city in the eighteenth century and they make for beautiful walks or mountain bike routes. A beautiful one is Forte Sperone- you can take a taxi or drive about ten minutes to the beginning of the hike and then walk all the way up to the fort and if you are courageous enough enter through one of the holes in the walls and visit the inside - incredible! If you want to walk further you can continue to one of the other forts - pick up a map of the forts at the Genoa tourist center.
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Forte Sperone
No visit to Genoa would be complete without at least one hike to the Forts. The city of Genoa is surrounded by old forts that were used to prophecy the city in the eighteenth century and they make for beautiful walks or mountain bike routes. A beautiful one is Forte Sperone- you can take a taxi or drive about ten minutes to the beginning of the hike and then walk all the way up to the fort and if you are courageous enough enter through one of the holes in the walls and visit the inside - incredible! If you want to walk further you can continue to one of the other forts - pick up a map of the forts at the Genoa tourist center.
The Italian Riviera has long been considered second banana compared to the more chic, richer , more touristy French counterpart as Itay focused for years its tourism on the south where temparatures are higher. However in recent years there has been a growing interest in the Liguria region especially coming from French and Germans and, growingly, Italians alike. When talking about the Riviera you will hear locals referring to the Riviera di Levante, to the East of Genoa (towards Southern Italy), the more upscale, touristic and expensive part which inclusdes the beautiful beaches of Portofino, Camogli, Sestri Levante (all within 40-60 minutes drive) and Riviera di Ponente, to the West of the city (towards France) which has been heavily industrialized and is less 'visited' for its beaches but does offer some interesting ones like Pegli, the only real beach actually within the city of Genoa and easily reachable in 20 minutes or Arenzano. If you have the time I suggest you focus more on Levante but be ready for traffic, especially in summer, and expensive fees for renting a sunbed. However, if you want to be more like the locals I highly recommend Arenzano - after the main beach leave the car and walk through a pedestrian tunnel (it used to be a railroad!) that cuts the hill and you will find yoursef in a beautiful beach with incredible landscapes and affordable sunbeds that has nothing to envy to the best Sardinian beaches!
Baia Calipso
Via Fabrizio de AndrèThe Italian Riviera has long been considered second banana compared to the more chic, richer , more touristy French counterpart as Itay focused for years its tourism on the south where temparatures are higher. However in recent years there has been a growing interest in the Liguria region especially coming from French and Germans and, growingly, Italians alike. When talking about the Riviera you will hear locals referring to the Riviera di Levante, to the East of Genoa (towards Southern Italy), the more upscale, touristic and expensive part which inclusdes the beautiful beaches of Portofino, Camogli, Sestri Levante (all within 40-60 minutes drive) and Riviera di Ponente, to the West of the city (towards France) which has been heavily industrialized and is less 'visited' for its beaches but does offer some interesting ones like Pegli, the only real beach actually within the city of Genoa and easily reachable in 20 minutes or Arenzano. If you have the time I suggest you focus more on Levante but be ready for traffic, especially in summer, and expensive fees for renting a sunbed. However, if you want to be more like the locals I highly recommend Arenzano - after the main beach leave the car and walk through a pedestrian tunnel (it used to be a railroad!) that cuts the hill and you will find yoursef in a beautiful beach with incredible landscapes and affordable sunbeds that has nothing to envy to the best Sardinian beaches!
Something very special about Genoa is the fact that its all built on heights and What best way to reach for those heights than using its century old funicular trains and lifts! One great example is the principe granarolo funicular train that was build in the early 20th century for workers to go back home on the mountains after working at the port. The trains are in itself a piece of history and in 15 minutes they will take you up and if you want you can have long walks and explore the forts from there! The train actually leaves from the Miramare building so if you are staying there it’s a very easy and fun thing to do - highly recommended! What’s more at the moment it’s free so you don’t need a ticket to ride it!
Railway Principe - Granarolo
4 Piazza del PrincipeSomething very special about Genoa is the fact that its all built on heights and What best way to reach for those heights than using its century old funicular trains and lifts! One great example is the principe granarolo funicular train that was build in the early 20th century for workers to go back home on the mountains after working at the port. The trains are in itself a piece of history and in 15 minutes they will take you up and if you want you can have long walks and explore the forts from there! The train actually leaves from the Miramare building so if you are staying there it’s a very easy and fun thing to do - highly recommended! What’s more at the moment it’s free so you don’t need a ticket to ride it!
I am personally not a big fan of aquariums as I feel sad for the fishes but if you want to visit one, Genoa's aquarium is one of the best in the world. Make sure you buy your tickets in advance on line as it gets very crowded in peak season.
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Ενυδρείο της Γένοβας
Ponte SpinolaI am personally not a big fan of aquariums as I feel sad for the fishes but if you want to visit one, Genoa's aquarium is one of the best in the world. Make sure you buy your tickets in advance on line as it gets very crowded in peak season.
Food scene
Everybody knows pesto - the Italian Basil-based pasta condiment that has taken the world by storm - but few know that the birthplace of Pesto is Genoa and - it goes without saying - this is the place where you should taste it.
Best way to taste Pesto is on you pasta - possibly the famous ‘trofie’ type - but pesto is also great on your lasagne (lasagne al pesto) and on Your pizza or focaccia.
Where to eat it? My favorite place is Trattoria da Maria, in vico testadoro 14 , near central Piazza de Ferrari - the ambience is friendly and informal and you will be greeted by three generation family with very low prices and delicious food. Be ready to share the table with other guests. No reservations accepted, only walk-in and only opened at lunch during the week and Saturday and in the evenings only Thursday and Friday.
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Trattoria da Maria
14r Vico TestadoroEverybody knows pesto - the Italian Basil-based pasta condiment that has taken the world by storm - but few know that the birthplace of Pesto is Genoa and - it goes without saying - this is the place where you should taste it.
Best way to taste Pesto is on you pasta - possibly the famous ‘trofie’ type - but pesto is also great on your lasagne (lasagne al pesto) and on Your pizza or focaccia.
Where to eat it? My favorite place is Trattoria da Maria, in vico testadoro 14 , near central Piazza de Ferrari - the ambience is friendly and informal and you will be greeted by three generation family with very low prices and delicious food. Be ready to share the table with other guests. No reservations accepted, only walk-in and only opened at lunch during the week and Saturday and in the evenings only Thursday and Friday.
- Trattoria delle Grazie, via delle Grazie 48 - near the Old Port is a great place to eat fresh seafood and Pesto. Very near the aquarium but please book in advance. Service is good and prices contained. Their pesto is excellent band local wine della casa also quite good.
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Trattoria delle Grazie
48 Via delle Grazie- Trattoria delle Grazie, via delle Grazie 48 - near the Old Port is a great place to eat fresh seafood and Pesto. Very near the aquarium but please book in advance. Service is good and prices contained. Their pesto is excellent band local wine della casa also quite good.
Trattoria Tralalero - Via Arsenale di Terra 1 – this is opposite the Principe station and it is one of the best choices in that area. Make sure you visit the next door Savoia Hotel Lobby, this hotel has been around for a hundred years and it has a lot of charm.
Trattoria Tralalero
Trattoria Tralalero - Via Arsenale di Terra 1 – this is opposite the Principe station and it is one of the best choices in that area. Make sure you visit the next door Savoia Hotel Lobby, this hotel has been around for a hundred years and it has a lot of charm.
Another landmark is Osteria vico palla near the old port. This is more pricey but excellent! And near the Port area. Book in advance.
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Osteria di Vico Palla
15 Vico PallaAnother landmark is Osteria vico palla near the old port. This is more pricey but excellent! And near the Port area. Book in advance.
Don't be fooled by the English sounding name, this is all Italian cuisine. It's a bit on the more expensive/ sophisticated side compared to my other recommendations but it's a great choice if you are looking for somewhat more creative modern Italian cuisine.
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Soho Ristorante Genova
20 R Via al Ponte CalviDon't be fooled by the English sounding name, this is all Italian cuisine. It's a bit on the more expensive/ sophisticated side compared to my other recommendations but it's a great choice if you are looking for somewhat more creative modern Italian cuisine.
On a slightly rougher part of the city near the Cruise and sheep terminals is this very down-to-earth but delicious restaurant. Prices are very contained and the atmosphere is very easy going as you will get to mingle with the locals. The name of the restaurant is dedicated to Don Gallo, a charismatic priest that in the 80s/90s stood up for the poor and marginalized of the city.
Osteria Marinara A Lanterna da Don Gallo
134r Via MilanoOn a slightly rougher part of the city near the Cruise and sheep terminals is this very down-to-earth but delicious restaurant. Prices are very contained and the atmosphere is very easy going as you will get to mingle with the locals. The name of the restaurant is dedicated to Don Gallo, a charismatic priest that in the 80s/90s stood up for the poor and marginalized of the city.