Guidebook for Rijeka

Slobodan
Guidebook for Rijeka

Food Scene

Freshly caught fish excellently prepared. Very good selection of Croatian wines.
kantun
41 Demetrova ul.
Freshly caught fish excellently prepared. Very good selection of Croatian wines.
Burger place with a difference. Spare ribs recommended. A selection of Croatian craft beers.
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Submarine Burger Rijeka
4 Ulica Marka Marulića
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Burger place with a difference. Spare ribs recommended. A selection of Croatian craft beers.
This is a pizza take-away place with a couple of bar stools where one can eat in too. They deliver F.O.C. (free of charge). We were impressed with the quality, quantity (size) and value-for-money aspects of their menu.
Quattro Cucine
18 Tizianova ul.
This is a pizza take-away place with a couple of bar stools where one can eat in too. They deliver F.O.C. (free of charge). We were impressed with the quality, quantity (size) and value-for-money aspects of their menu.
Grilled meats. Pizza too, but grilled meats. Draft beer, but grilled meats. A busy place. Very affordable - even cheap.
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Carraca Pub
8 Vrlije ul.
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Grilled meats. Pizza too, but grilled meats. Draft beer, but grilled meats. A busy place. Very affordable - even cheap.
It's name reveals all - grill meats. Yes, and good draft beer, but grilled meats. Situated above a marina and near the iconic Rijeka footbal club's stadium, Kantrida.
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Zona grill
3 Pulska ul.
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It's name reveals all - grill meats. Yes, and good draft beer, but grilled meats. Situated above a marina and near the iconic Rijeka footbal club's stadium, Kantrida.
Excellent cakes (from their own patisserie located in the fishing village Volosko); very good selection of teas; upper deck seating; very nice and discrete music: REALLY NON SMOKING.
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GRAD kavana&bar
7b Ul. Riva Boduli
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Excellent cakes (from their own patisserie located in the fishing village Volosko); very good selection of teas; upper deck seating; very nice and discrete music: REALLY NON SMOKING.
Excellent chef serves "slow food" (many and varied small portion servings, with an excellent selection of wines and deserts). The restaurant is part of a beautiful boutique hotel. This place is not cheap, but the food is extraordinary, in my view.
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Hotel Kukuriku
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Excellent chef serves "slow food" (many and varied small portion servings, with an excellent selection of wines and deserts). The restaurant is part of a beautiful boutique hotel. This place is not cheap, but the food is extraordinary, in my view.
Coffe bar, desserts shop, ice-cream parlour - all in one. Non smoking inside. Try their made-in-front-of-your-eyes ice-cream with a choice of toppings. If you fancy observing high street walkers, this place has tables and chairs on Korzo - the central car-free shopping street with a number of caffe bars also with terrace seating. Across the road is McDonald's (in case none of the local restaurants, taverns and inns are your fancy).
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Bonbonnière Kraš
24A Korzo
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Coffe bar, desserts shop, ice-cream parlour - all in one. Non smoking inside. Try their made-in-front-of-your-eyes ice-cream with a choice of toppings. If you fancy observing high street walkers, this place has tables and chairs on Korzo - the central car-free shopping street with a number of caffe bars also with terrace seating. Across the road is McDonald's (in case none of the local restaurants, taverns and inns are your fancy).
Fresh fish is what they specialise in. This tavern is next to the fish mongers market - which is a must to visit - and to the fresh food market.
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Konoba Fiume
12 Ul. Vatroslava Lisinskog
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Fresh fish is what they specialise in. This tavern is next to the fish mongers market - which is a must to visit - and to the fresh food market.

Drinks & Nightlife

This place serves also tapas like snacks, good beers, and is genuinely non-smoking inside. It also has terrace seating.
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Bar Bar
3 Ul. pod Kaštelom
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This place serves also tapas like snacks, good beers, and is genuinely non-smoking inside. It also has terrace seating.
Situated on the Karolina wharf, this place caters for young-to-middle-aged customers who prefer trendy music and late nights (till 4 am, I understand).
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Caffe bar Karolina
8 Riva
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Situated on the Karolina wharf, this place caters for young-to-middle-aged customers who prefer trendy music and late nights (till 4 am, I understand).
Also serves food & pizza also. Live music weekends.
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Boonker
1 Istarsko pristanište
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Also serves food & pizza also. Live music weekends.
Live music weekends
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Pub "River"
12 Ul. Frana Supila
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Live music weekends
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Phanas
9 Ul. Ivana Zajca
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200 types of bottled beer on offer. Live music weekends.
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The Beertija Klub
12 Slavka Krautzeka
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200 types of bottled beer on offer. Live music weekends.

Sightseeing

Trsat Castle dominates the Sušak part of the city of Rijeka, on the eastern bank of the Rječina river (BTW, Rijeka means river, and its Italian name, Fiume, also means river in Italian), which used to be the border between the Kingdom of Italy and the Kingdom of Jugoslavija after WWI and till the end of WWII. Trsta Castle is more tahn 130 m above sea level and offers fantastic views of the Rijeka and the Bay of Kvarner, its islands, and the Istrian peninsula mountain range. There a very comfy and cosy caffe bar with a large terrace there as well.
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Φρούριο Τρσάτ
9a Partizanski put
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Trsat Castle dominates the Sušak part of the city of Rijeka, on the eastern bank of the Rječina river (BTW, Rijeka means river, and its Italian name, Fiume, also means river in Italian), which used to be the border between the Kingdom of Italy and the Kingdom of Jugoslavija after WWI and till the end of WWII. Trsta Castle is more tahn 130 m above sea level and offers fantastic views of the Rijeka and the Bay of Kvarner, its islands, and the Istrian peninsula mountain range. There a very comfy and cosy caffe bar with a large terrace there as well.
Rijeka Tower Clock was the city gate once-upon-a-time. The buildings to the south of the Korzo (high) street in front of the Tower Clock are all built on reclaimed land. Passing under the Tower Clock takes you into the Old Town where most of Rijeka houses were until the town started growing thanks to shipping and industries in the 18th and 19th century. This led also to Rijeka being the place were torpedo was invented. The Tower Clock sports again - after decades of being stripped off it - the double-headed eagle on its top, which was part of the city's insignia and heraldry from the Austro-Hungarian times.
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Πύργος του ρολογιού της πόλης
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Rijeka Tower Clock was the city gate once-upon-a-time. The buildings to the south of the Korzo (high) street in front of the Tower Clock are all built on reclaimed land. Passing under the Tower Clock takes you into the Old Town where most of Rijeka houses were until the town started growing thanks to shipping and industries in the 18th and 19th century. This led also to Rijeka being the place were torpedo was invented. The Tower Clock sports again - after decades of being stripped off it - the double-headed eagle on its top, which was part of the city's insignia and heraldry from the Austro-Hungarian times.
National Theatre building is situated between the Mrtvi Kanal canal offshoot of the river Rječina and the food market. Opera, drama and ballet are housed here as is the Italian drama theatre.
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Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Ivana pl. Zajca Rijeka
bb Verdijeva ul.
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National Theatre building is situated between the Mrtvi Kanal canal offshoot of the river Rječina and the food market. Opera, drama and ballet are housed here as is the Italian drama theatre.

Shopping

Not sure what to say other than you've seen one, you've seen them all. It does sport, however, a multiplex cinema with 8 screens. Movies are shown in their original language (not dubbed in Croatian).
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Tower Center Rijeka
81a Ul. Janka Polića Kamova
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Not sure what to say other than you've seen one, you've seen them all. It does sport, however, a multiplex cinema with 8 screens. Movies are shown in their original language (not dubbed in Croatian).
One of 3 Lidle shops in Rijeka.
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Lidl
67/A Osječka ul.
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One of 3 Lidle shops in Rijeka.
This Lidl shop is near Matulji (between Rijeka and Opatija).
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Lidl
67/A Osječka ul.
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This Lidl shop is near Matulji (between Rijeka and Opatija).
Sited on the ground floor of the Tower Centre
INTERSPAR Hipermarket
81a Ul. Janka Polića Kamova
Sited on the ground floor of the Tower Centre
New shopping mall with a SPAR supermarket
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SPAR Supermarket
2c Pulska ul.
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New shopping mall with a SPAR supermarket
Interspar Rujevica (by the new FC Rijeka stadium)
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INTERSPAR
18 Ul. Maria Gennaria
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Interspar Rujevica (by the new FC Rijeka stadium)
A large Konzum supermarket (near Lidl in Osječka ulica)
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Konzum
81A Ul. Janka Polića Kamova
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A large Konzum supermarket (near Lidl in Osječka ulica)
A must-see - Rijeka fresh food market. The last of the 3 pavilions houses the fresh fish market. Don't miss it.
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Tržnice Rijeka
3 Demetrova ul.
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A must-see - Rijeka fresh food market. The last of the 3 pavilions houses the fresh fish market. Don't miss it.

Arts & Culture

Apart from examples of torpedoes - a deadly device invented in Rijeka by a local sea captain, Ivan / Giovanni Lupis, and the English entrepreneur and engineer, Robert Whitehead - you can see the only Titanic life west in Europe in this museum. That's due to the fact that the SS Carpathia, which was a liner servicing Rijeka - New York line, was the first major vessel to reach the sinking Titanic thus managing to save most of the survivors. SS Carpathia crew were mostly locals from Rijeka and its surroundings.
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Μαρίτιμ και Ιστορικό Μουσείο της Κροατικής Ακτής, Ριέκα
1 Trg Riccarda Zanelle
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Apart from examples of torpedoes - a deadly device invented in Rijeka by a local sea captain, Ivan / Giovanni Lupis, and the English entrepreneur and engineer, Robert Whitehead - you can see the only Titanic life west in Europe in this museum. That's due to the fact that the SS Carpathia, which was a liner servicing Rijeka - New York line, was the first major vessel to reach the sinking Titanic thus managing to save most of the survivors. SS Carpathia crew were mostly locals from Rijeka and its surroundings.
This multiplex has been voted number 1 movie projection company in Europe in 2019 by UNIC (The International Union of Cinemas ). Movies are played in their original language with subtitles in Croatian.
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CineStar Rijeka (Tower centar)
81a Ul. Janka Polića Kamova
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This multiplex has been voted number 1 movie projection company in Europe in 2019 by UNIC (The International Union of Cinemas ). Movies are played in their original language with subtitles in Croatian.

Essentials

Mid-sized market less than 250 m from our apartment. However, the same chain operates a small grocery - convenience store on the ground floor of our building, so you don't even need an umbrella when it's raining if you need some food, drinks or supplies.
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Brodokomerc Nova
7a Ul. Slaviše Vajnera Čiče
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Mid-sized market less than 250 m from our apartment. However, the same chain operates a small grocery - convenience store on the ground floor of our building, so you don't even need an umbrella when it's raining if you need some food, drinks or supplies.

Entertainment & Activities

A large and modern fitness centre on the harbour wall with stunning views of Rijeka on the northern side, and the Bay of Kvarner, its island, an Učka peak on its southern and western sides.
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Terminal 7 Fitness & Caffe bar
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A large and modern fitness centre on the harbour wall with stunning views of Rijeka on the northern side, and the Bay of Kvarner, its island, an Učka peak on its southern and western sides.
Want to see what it's like to swim in the Adriatic Sea within the city limits? Then take a local bus or, even cheaper if it's at least 2 of you, a local taxi and head for this area. There are 5 beaches - access is free of charge - along the south-east road out of the city centre. The area is called Pećine and at least 2 beaches have interesting beach bars: Sabljićevo (next to Hotel Jadran) and Grčevo (last beach before the Martinšćica Bay).
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Pećine Public Beach
Pećine ulica
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Want to see what it's like to swim in the Adriatic Sea within the city limits? Then take a local bus or, even cheaper if it's at least 2 of you, a local taxi and head for this area. There are 5 beaches - access is free of charge - along the south-east road out of the city centre. The area is called Pećine and at least 2 beaches have interesting beach bars: Sabljićevo (next to Hotel Jadran) and Grčevo (last beach before the Martinšćica Bay).
See the write-up for Pećine Beaches. Beach Bar recommended. South-east side of this pebble beach is known for its cold, fresh-water wellheads.
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Sablićevo Beach
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See the write-up for Pećine Beaches. Beach Bar recommended. South-east side of this pebble beach is known for its cold, fresh-water wellheads.
Popular beach bar at the end of Pećine beaches.
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Pajol bar Pecine
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Popular beach bar at the end of Pećine beaches.
Go west about 6 km from Rijeka city centre and you get to Kantrida with it's well known football stadium (listed by FIFA as one of the unique and most beautiful old football stadiums). Next to it on the eastern side is a pebble beach with the Morski prasac beach bar.
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Beach bar Morski Prasac
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Go west about 6 km from Rijeka city centre and you get to Kantrida with it's well known football stadium (listed by FIFA as one of the unique and most beautiful old football stadiums). Next to it on the eastern side is a pebble beach with the Morski prasac beach bar.
About 1 km further from the Kantrida football stadium is the swimming pool complex (3 indoors Olympic-size swimming pools and an outdoors Olympic diving pool) below which is the Ploče beach (a.k.a. Fiumana beach) with 2 beach bars serving food as well.
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Fiumana Beach
Istarska ulica
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About 1 km further from the Kantrida football stadium is the swimming pool complex (3 indoors Olympic-size swimming pools and an outdoors Olympic diving pool) below which is the Ploče beach (a.k.a. Fiumana beach) with 2 beach bars serving food as well.
Another couple of kilometres and you come to this beach with a beach bar (drinks, food, music).
Beach bar Empeduja
Istarska ulica
Another couple of kilometres and you come to this beach with a beach bar (drinks, food, music).
Get past the Martinšćica Bay - can't miss it because of the huge dry dock in its shipyard - and you get to Žurkovo part of Kostrena as the most popular place for the Rijeka citizens to go swimming. There are numerous pebble beaches along the 3 km cost line from Žurkovo to Lučica Stara voda.
Cafe "Val"
6 Žurkovo ul.
Get past the Martinšćica Bay - can't miss it because of the huge dry dock in its shipyard - and you get to Žurkovo part of Kostrena as the most popular place for the Rijeka citizens to go swimming. There are numerous pebble beaches along the 3 km cost line from Žurkovo to Lučica Stara voda.
One of the pebble beaches of the Kostrena coastline sunk in a cosy bay.
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Svežanj Bay
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One of the pebble beaches of the Kostrena coastline sunk in a cosy bay.
OPen all-year-round this diving centre is popular with visitors from Italy, Russia, Slovenia, Austria, Hungary ..etc. as well as for local scuba divers (BTW, this is where I started my long career in scuba diving eons ago). It sport a very good restaurant and accommodation for divers.
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Diving Center Kostrena
1 Rožići
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OPen all-year-round this diving centre is popular with visitors from Italy, Russia, Slovenia, Austria, Hungary ..etc. as well as for local scuba divers (BTW, this is where I started my long career in scuba diving eons ago). It sport a very good restaurant and accommodation for divers.
Restaurant on the Kostrena coastline. Next to it a beach bar.
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Kostrenka
3 Rožići
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Restaurant on the Kostrena coastline. Next to it a beach bar.
Another beach bar in Kostrena.
Mosquito Bar
Another beach bar in Kostrena.
More beach bars - just a way to indicate beaches on that coastline.
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Beach Bar "PHANAS"
bb Ul. Stara Voda
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More beach bars - just a way to indicate beaches on that coastline.
Continuing with the beach bar theme in Kostrena
SMOKEHOUSE Kostrena
Continuing with the beach bar theme in Kostrena
Not just a beach food place, but a personally highly recommended one.
Me Gusta Beach Food
Not just a beach food place, but a personally highly recommended one.
And last but not least this place above the small boat marina.
Beach Bar Levante
And last but not least this place above the small boat marina.